Wirecutter Writer Taste Tested 31 Hot Dogs. Sabrett Won.
Kathleen Squires, a food writer for Wirecutter at the New York Times, discusses her team's blind tasting of 31 all-beef hot dogs, which crowned Sabrett as the winner due to its superior snap, flavor balance, and New York appeal. The conversation covers the tasting methodology, regional hot dog styles, and the cultural significance of hot dogs as an American food shaped by immigrant heritage and regional customization.
Summary
Kathleen Squires from Wirecutter at the New York Times describes a comprehensive hot dog tasting evaluation involving eight taste testers from across the United States (Indiana, California, Texas, New York). The tasting process employed blind tastings to eliminate bias, beginning with hot dogs in their purest form—boiled and cut into pieces without buns or condiments—before narrowing down to 11 finalists that were then evaluated in buns with consistent toppings. The evaluation criteria included texture (particularly the "snap" when biting into the hot dog), flavor, spice balance, and appearance including how the hot dog sits in the bun and mingles with condiments. Sabrett emerged as the top choice, a New York classic recognizable by its blue and yellow umbrellas on food carts throughout the city. Squires notes that Sabrett offers the best snap and flavor balance and has a distinctive taste reminiscent of pastrami, with mid-range pricing that is reasonable in New York but becomes more expensive on the West Coast due to shipping costs. Beyond the main hot dog ranking, the team also conducted a regional toppings bracket featuring eight styles, with Seattle-style dogs winning by a 2-to-1 vote. Seattle dogs are characterized by butterflied hot dogs with cream cheese spread on the bun, jalapeños for crunch, and onions—a combination that allows toppings to soak into the butterflied meat. The discussion contextualizes hot dogs as inherently American food, explaining that while hot dogs arrived via 19th-century immigrants, Americans individualized them across regions with distinct topping preferences, making them a cultural blank slate. Squires personally prefers grilled hot dogs with mustard only and no ketchup, and notes that while the study focused on all-beef varieties, infinite hot dog variations exist including turkey, pork, pork-chicken blends, and vegan tofu options, which she personally finds tasty.
Key Insights
- The snap of a hot dog—the texture when you bite into it—is identified as the number one thing that matters in a hot dog's quality
- Sabrett won the all-beef hot dog ranking due to having the best snap, best balance of flavor, and tasting similar to pastrami, with mid-range pricing that is reasonable in New York
- The tasting methodology used eight geographically diverse taste testers (from Indiana, California, Texas, and New York) conducting blind tastings, starting with boiled hot dogs without buns or condiments before narrowing to 11 finalists evaluated in buns
- Seattle-style hot dogs won a regional toppings bracket by a 2-to-1 vote, featuring butterflied hot dogs with cream cheese on the bun, jalapeños, and onions that allow toppings to soak into the meat
- Hot dogs are quintessentially American because while they arrived via 19th-century immigrants, Americans across the nation individualized them with regional spins and toppings, making them a culturally malleable food
Topics
Transcript
[0:00] We have somebody with who knows an awful lot about hot dogs. It's Kathleen Squires. She's a food writer for Wirecutter at the New York Times. She has tested you yourself with a team, 31 different hot dogs, all beef, and rated them. We're gonna get into sort of the the hierarchy of all of this, but let me ask you first about the snap. How much does the snap of a hot dog matter? The snap of the hot dog is the number one thing that matters. That that nice, like, texture when you bite into it and it snaps. That's what a hot dog should be all about. [0:30] So which of the ones that you rated,…
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