6 new things we saw at New York Fashion Week

In this episode of the Glossy Podcast, Senior Fashion Reporter Danny Parisi and Editor-in-Chief Jill Manoff recap New York Fashion Week, which had just concluded. They structure their discussion around six new or notably emphasized trends observed during the week.

The first major story involved CFDA president Stephen Kolb getting into a physical altercation with PETA protesters who disrupted the COS show. Kolb was recorded restraining protesters, covering their mouths, and pressing them against walls. Both hosts noted this was unusual and a poor decision, especially since security was already handling the situation. Kolb subsequently apologized and took leave from his position. They noted the irony that this season marked the first Fashion Week with no fur in official calendar shows due to CFDA policy changes Kolb had championed, and speculated he may not return given his previous mentions of potential retirement.

Both hosts observed significantly more casual and accessible clothing options across brands. Examples included Tanner Fletcher's affordable t-shirts under $200, Sergio Hudson's knit cardigans, Campilo's graphic tees, jeans from multiple brands, and new categories like swimwear. Brands also introduced more entry-level products like fragrances priced around $220 and collaborations with accessible beauty lines. This casualization reflected both economic considerations and how people actually dress.

A third trend involved intentional mixing of vintage and archival pieces with new collections. Tanner Fletcher incorporated vintage decor and vintage clothing sales into presentations. Sanderlack displayed multiple seasons together to show brand evolution. eBay's big showcase and auction featured major designers contributing archival pieces, with participation from Calvin Klein, DVF, Michael Kors, and others curated by Jenna Lyons. This approach acknowledged that consumers mix new items with vintage finds and pieces from previous seasons.

Storyelling emerged as a significantly enhanced element across presentations. Theory introduced a runway-style presentation with creative director Shane Noble's voice-over explaining his vision for each look. Tanner Fletcher and Buck Mason created immersive showroom experiences reflecting brand lifestyle and values. Multiple brands, including My Teresa and Poshmark, built 360-degree advertising campaigns around their Fashion Week events. Smaller brands dedicated substantial time to editor meetings to explain their point of view and differentiation. Premium magazines and mailers were produced to provide context, with examples including Kallmeyer's 100+ page publication and Altuzarra's tradition of placing books with curator's notes on seats.

A fifth observation was the proliferation of official after-parties hosted by brands. Vogue published a trend report noting numerous evening parties from brands including Kendra Scott, J.Crew, Alo Yoga, Netta Porte, Montclair, and Timberland. Hosts theorized this reflected brands new to New York opening stores and seeking to embed themselves in the local fashion community, though some parties were simply additional brand activations alongside shows.

Finally, hosts noted heightened experiential elements in show presentations. Coach's 85th anniversary show featured tables with olives and snacks, entertainment with a band during the finale, a disco dance floor reveal, shrimp towers, and a caviar-and-chips station. My Teresa offered champagne towers with branded matchbooks. Gwen featured a branded butter block with grapes and goop-kitchen-style healthy foods. Retrofit provided lychee martinis and French café-style seating. Colina Strada hosted a show at Storm King Art Center upstate with provided transportation, though hosts noted this extreme commitment was difficult for busy editors to accommodate. Cigarettes appeared as props and takeaways across multiple shows, suggesting a design trend.

Overall, hosts characterized the week as having excellent energy with major spectacle shows, controversy, memorable moments, and thoughtful design touches, making it one of the more memorable New York Fashion Weeks they'd covered.